Friday, March 31, 2017

March 9: Bundala Bird Sanctuary




Another 5 o'clock call for an early morning rush by jeep to Bundala National Park.  We need to be there for the best birdwatching hours when the park opens at 6am.   We eat packed breakfasts again and today there are no monkeys to steal our banana's through the window as they did yesterday. 




Grey Heron, photo by Mary m Payne


We are staying now in the rustic cabins of Kirinda Beach Resort.  We journeyed most of the previous day to get here in our air conditioned bus. 

This new place is staffed by local people who carry the bags, sweep the dirt, clean the rooms and serve in the restaurant.  The manager is the only one who speaks English and he is very accommodating.  The food is excellent, the ocean is wild and the roaches are as big as lapdogs.   But yes, we are on Safari and we each brought a flashlight to look where we put our feet before we venture into our open air bathrooms. 

All of us have swollen feet and ankles and we all have huge beds hung with mosquito nets.  Up until now, Dave and I have not been bitten.  ( In fact we never get a mosquito bite or get King Kasyapa's revenge from drinking bad water while we are in Sri Lanka).    But I did get a leg cramp in the night and find out that and the puffy ankles are caused by loss of salt and water from the body and too much sitting.   We need salt, exercise and water to make up for the strain on the circulatory system trying to to cool the body.  The "kankles" finally reduce in size before we go home.  Luckily I brought a pair of velcro fitted sandals. 

And, I must admit that my carcass is still creaky from sitting in a jeep all day yesterday bouncing along on the rutted, dirt roads of the national park.  The guides at Yala didn't seem to take the point of stopping to listen to the sounds of nature either.  They knew they had to find the leopards and elephants before the day ended, or the visitors would be disappointed.

 Today's ride will be at a slower pace.  The guide and driver stop the engine from time to time for us to enjoy the birdlife.  So Bundala is a much calmer experience than yesterday's wild ride.   

View of Dining Hall, Kirinda Beach Resort,  Photo by Mary M Payne

Rooftop Pool at Kirinda Beach Resort, Photo by Mary M Payne

Cabins at Kirinda Beach Resort, Photo by Mary M Payne

  Happy Birthday to my niece,  Emma.   As they say on the postcard, "wish you were here". 


Intermediate Egret, Sri Lanka photo by mary m payne





Saturday, March 25, 2017

A Day at Yala National Park: Photo shoot

Wild Boar, Sri Lanka,  Yala National Park



vista at Yala National Park: Photo by Mary M Payne



Close up of Wild Boar, Sri Lanka: Photo by Mary M Payne



Plentiful Peacocks to by found in Sri Lanka, Photo by Mary M Payne



Storks posing at Yala National Park, Photo by Mary M Payne



Monitor lizard in his home in Sri Lanka, Photo by Mary M Payne



Baby Elephant , Yala National Park, Sri Lanka , photo by Mary M Payne



Mother and baby beside the road , Yala National Park, Sri Lanka, photo by Mary M Payne



Wild Elephants, Sri Lanka , photo by Mary M Payne



Toque Macaque Monkey, Sri Lanka, Photo by Mary M Payne



Storks, Sri Lanka : Photo by Mary M Payne




Bee Eater , Sri Lanka  photo by Mary M Payne



Crested Serpent Eagle, Sri Lanka , photo by Mary M Payne



Stork, Sri Lanka, Photo by Mary M Payne



Mugger Crocodile, Yala National Park, Photo by Mary M Payne

Jeep hits a mud hole and drivers get stop to fill rut with logs and push.   Yala Park , Sri Lanka


Wild Elephant , Sri Lanka   Photo by Mary M Payne



Monitor catches the sun , Yala National Park, Photo by Mary M Payne




Baby Eagle in Nest, Yala , Sri Lanka: Photo by Mary M Payne




Lotus pond , Yala National Park , Sri Lanka , Photo by Mary M Payne

Water Buffalo and Elephant Rock , Yala,  Photo by Mary M Payne



Yala National Park, Sri Lanka, Photo by Mary M Payne


First Sighting, Yala,  Photo by Mary M Payne


Leopard enjoying the shade, Yala National Park



Sri Lankan Leopard, Yala National Park , Photo by Mary M Payne
Dave from Jeep at Yala National Park , photo by Mary M Payne

Thursday, March 23, 2017

March 6, a full day



"I am just looking at the itinerary for my birthday today and besides Galle fort it includes a visit to lace makers; a drive to Ahangama, lunch at a boutique hotel overlooking a stand of stilt fishermen; a visit to a small tea/pepper plantation specializing in white tea; a boat trip on Koggala lake to visit a cinnamon smallholding on an islet;  back to Galle and a demonstration by a chef creating hoppers for dinner at still another boutique inn.  All this before driving back to Lady Hill for the night.   This is my kind of birthday...full of new experiences and another taste of Sri Lankan food too ." ( from my journal)

Belgian lace making, Galle, photo by mary m payne

We did indeed visit a couple of lace making destinations on the trip.  Here is a lady making lace at an old Dutch house in Galle.  The lacemaking is just now being revived again as a cottage industry, originally brought over by the Portuguese.  It is called bobbin lace or Beeralu lace and is a kind of knitting done with bobbins.  
 I have posted a video from You Tube on another page to show you how it is done. 


Part of lace tablecloth, Sri Lanka 
June buys a carving too.  photo by Mary M Payne

Working out pattern for an appliqué butterfly, Sri Lanka  Photo by Mary M Payne

Prices are astonishingly low for the amount of work on one piece. Tell Tale travel supports local artisans so we visited quite a few in our two weeks.   I  noticed bobbin lace on some of our canopy beds in the colonial manor houses where we stayed.   I myself brought home some coasters.


 I also bought a little carved teak elephant from this man in Galle fort...how does he survive selling one for just six euros?

Galle was interesting, a little ancient city inside the walls of a living fort, left over from the Dutch, then British settlers..  Everyone in the fort survived the 2004 tsunami. Only a couple of boats were thrown over the ramparts.  Despite that security many of the original houses have sold lately because an average Sri Lankan can buy 9 houses elsewhere for the money received for their family house within the Galle fort. 

Sri Lankan woman , Galle, photo by Mary M Payne

Our next stop was a lunch of freshly caught tuna, rice and a tasty salad at Ocean Crest Inn and a good look at the Indian ocean and stilt fisherman.  

Ocean Crest Inn from the top floor dining room,  Photo by Mary M Payne


Stilt fishermen, Ahangama, Sri Lanka , photo by Mary M Payne

s no ordinary fishing, there might be several methods of catching a fish but this one is mind-boggling. Fishermen in Sri Lanka use stilts to catch a fish. Yes, stilt fishing is an old tradition practiced by around 500 fishing families in Galle, in southwestern-most Sri Lanka, especially around the towns of Kathaluwa and Ahangama. It had disappeared after the 2004 tsunami that struck Sri Lanka and other countries bordering the Indian Ocean, but resumed after things got back to normal. Its a beautiful sight looking at fishermen balancing on a thin plank, but at the same time its tough too. All this effort and toiling only to preserve their old custom, wonderful! They usually fish during sunset, noon and sunrise, with each one taking their elevated position and balancing about 2 metres above the water. As you can see in the picture below, there is a vertical pole engrafted into the sea bed, attached to it is a cross bar, called petta, on which the fishermen do the balancing act. Stilt fishing in Sri lanka So with one hand they hold the stilt and the other hand they have a fishing rod or a line to catch spotted herrings and small mackerels, which are then kept in a plastic bag tied around their waist or the pole. Earlier bags woven out of coconut leaves were used, but now they use discarded plastic bags. Why don’t they use nets instead? If the tradition is being carried on for so long, there has to be some reasoning behind it. Fishing on stilts Stilt fishing is done on the banks and is unobtrusive, so the fish stay around for a longer time because they don’t get disturbed. But with nets, if the fish gets disturbed they might not return for a long time. So the fishermen of Galle don’t mind sitting for long hours to get their catch, it seems they don’t use a bait either on the hook. Stilt fishing in Galle Sri Lanka Since how long this custom is practiced is not known, but I came across a government document which says that according to old fishermen stilt fishing started after the Second World War. Unfortunately such traditions generally are threatened due to commercialisation. Building of hotels close to stilt fishing areas, bathing tourists leads to disturbing the fish and driving them away from the coral reef. Resources: Stilt Fishermen Tags: Odd Stuff FALLEN SOLDIER The tyrannical tentacle of the state has caught one of our own. Gary Z McGee is in jail for the petty offense of not pulling over quickly enough. He is now charged with two felonies: Evading arrest and endangering a child, because his son was in the RV. The license plate was stolen from his vehicle during his trip back home from visiting his family over the holidays, and he was being pulled over for speeding and driving without plates. He is currently awaiting his day in court and will be sending us his words, as he is able. Living in the most incarcerated country in the world Gary Z McGee is just the latest victim of the prison industrial complex. He faces 2 to 15 years in prison if convicted. Please feel free to send him words of your own to P.O. BOX 39 Sierra Blanca, Texas 7985. As is usual in this system, people with money can bail themselves out and afford proper legal counsel. Unfortunately Gary is not in this category. His bail amounts to $8,500.00. And the minimum to obtain legal counsel is $1,600.00. Any donation is greatly appreciated. To send a care package: My care pack.com or 866-643-9557. To put money on his books 866-394-0490. Facility code #5500 booking number 2016016069. If you would like to donate to his bail or defense fund we have set up a pay pal account for Gary.Mcgeezfund@gmail.com Profile photo of Bhavika Bhavika Bhavika is a nature-loving, spiritual being and co-founder of Fractal Enlightenment, who strives to help fellow beings re-connect with nature and their inner selves. Thank you for being part of this journey. Show Comments

Read more at: https://fractalenlightenment.com/940/culture/the-old-custom-of-stilt-fishing-in-sri-lanka | FractalEnlightenment.com 
s no ordinary fishing, there might be several methods of catching a fish but this one is mind-boggling. Fishermen in Sri Lanka use stilts to catch a fish. Yes, stilt fishing is an old tradition practiced by around 500 fishing families in Galle, in southwestern-most Sri Lanka, especially around the towns of Kathaluwa and Ahangama. It had disappeared after the 2004 tsunami that struck Sri Lanka and other countries bordering the Indian Ocean, but resumed after things got back to normal. Its a beautiful sight looking at fishermen balancing on a thin plank, but at the same time its tough too. All this effort and toiling only to preserve their old custom, wonderful! They usually fish during sunset, noon and sunrise, with each one taking their elevated position and balancing about 2 metres above the water. As you can see in the picture below, there is a vertical pole engrafted into the sea bed, attached to it is a cross bar, called petta, on which the fishermen do the balancing act. Stilt fishing in Sri lanka So with one hand they hold the stilt and the other hand they have a fishing rod or a line to catch spotted herrings and small mackerels, which are then kept in a plastic bag tied around their waist or the pole. Earlier bags woven out of coconut leaves were used, but now they use discarded plastic bags. Why don’t they use nets instead? If the tradition is being carried on for so long, there has to be some reasoning behind it. Fishing on stilts Stilt fishing is done on the banks and is unobtrusive, so the fish stay around for a longer time because they don’t get disturbed. But with nets, if the fish gets disturbed they might not return for a long time. So the fishermen of Galle don’t mind sitting for long hours to get their catch, it seems they don’t use a bait either on the hook. Stilt fishing in Galle Sri Lanka Since how long this custom is practiced is not known, but I came across a government document which says that according to old fishermen stilt fishing started after the Second World War. Unfortunately such traditions generally are threatened due to commercialisation. Building of hotels close to stilt fishing areas, bathing tourists leads to disturbing the fish and driving them away from the coral reef. Resources: Stilt Fishermen Tags: Odd Stuff FALLEN SOLDIER The tyrannical tentacle of the state has caught one of our own. Gary Z McGee is in jail for the petty offense of not pulling over quickly enough. He is now charged with two felonies: Evading arrest and endangering a child, because his son was in the RV. The license plate was stolen from his vehicle during his trip back home from visiting his family over the holidays, and he was being pulled over for speeding and driving without plates. He is currently awaiting his day in court and will be sending us his words, as he is able. Living in the most incarcerated country in the world Gary Z McGee is just the latest victim of the prison industrial complex. He faces 2 to 15 years in prison if convicted. Please feel free to send him words of your own to P.O. BOX 39 Sierra Blanca, Texas 7985. As is usual in this system, people with money can bail themselves out and afford proper legal counsel. Unfortunately Gary is not in this category. His bail amounts to $8,500.00. And the minimum to obtain legal counsel is $1,600.00. Any donation is greatly appreciated. To send a care package: My care pack.com or 866-643-9557. To put money on his books 866-394-0490. Facility code #5500 booking number 2016016069. If you would like to donate to his bail or defense fund we have set up a pay pal account for Gary.Mcgeezfund@gmail.com Profile photo of Bhavika Bhavika Bhavika is a nature-loving, spiritual being and co-founder of Fractal Enlightenment, who strives to help fellow beings re-connect with nature and their inner selves. Thank you for being part of this journey. Show Comments

Read more at: https://fractalenlightenment.com/940/culture/the-old-custom-of-stilt-fishing-in-sri-lanka | FractalEnlightenment.com 

This is no ordinary fishing, there might be several methods of catching a fish but this one is mind-boggling. Fishermen in Sri Lanka use stilts to catch a fish. Yes, stilt fishing is an old tradition practiced by around 500 fishing families in Galle, in southwestern-most Sri Lanka, especially around the towns of Kathaluwa and Ahangama.

Read more at: https://fractalenlightenment.com/940/culture/the-old-custom-of-stilt-fishing-in-sri-lanka | FractalEnlightenment.com 
This is an ancient method of fishing which requires perching on a stick with a crossbar.    It is still practiced by around 500 fishing families in Galle and in towns like this one, Ahangama.   The stick does not disturb the fish like netting does but it is a difficult balancing act.  

After lunch we were on our way to the small tea plantation Handunugoda https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Handunugoda_Tea_Estate which still uses machines left over from the British Colonial era.  I also got to see how black pepper grows as a vine on selected trees.


Pepper growing vine, Handunugoda Sri Lanka

  Here is a sign we saw posted there... although now the tea is picked by middle aged women with a tiny pair of scissors into an ordinary container, alas, not gold.  Virgin White Tea has a bland taste, but it is a health tonic and you won't find it just anywhere.  Handunugoda makes very small quantities of the choicest teas. 



By the time we got to Koggala lake the sun was setting and we took our tranquil boat ride with this view on the way to the cinnamon families on a small island.


There are a handful of families on the tiny islands here cultivating cinnamon bushes and preparing it in stick , powder and oil forms. The oil is known for its medicinal qualities including as a repellent of mosquitoes.   
 We were treated to a cup of cinnamon tea and watched a demo of the various processes and were able to buy.   Cinnamon bark is one of those things we take for granted in the west.  I never thought about from where it came or how it was prepared. Now I know. 


Stripping cinnamon bark to dry in sticks for market,  Koggala lake, Photo boy Mary M Payne
On we go to dinner and a hopper demonstration.  Hopper pancakes are a staple in Sri Lanka and are served plain or with an egg cracked inside.  They are similar in character and method of cooking to French crepes except that the pan is rounded on the bottom to create a bowl shape.   Plain hoppers can be eaten with a variety of curries and relishes and are quite satisfying. 

 The pan is seasoned with olive oil and then the batter is poured in.  It looks easy but many restaurants have their own hopper chef who arrives with all his accoutrements at the ready. 

Hopper chef at Unawatuna,  Sri Lanka Photo by Mary M Payne
 A delicious dinner followed and then a surprise dessert. ... a  birthday cake with Happy Birthday David and Mary on it.    Bless you Dee.  What a great day. 


Colombo to Galle, March 4

Early morning view of Galle from Lady Hill Hotel, Sri Lanka

A few things are memorable about our arrival at Colombo Airport  aside from the great service and lovely servers on Sri Lankan airlines. 
First of all it's the first airport I have been to where household electronic appliances are on sale along with cosmetics and perfumes.  After emerging into a dauntingly damp heat,  it did seem to make sense to haul out a refrigerator or a fan with your spinner bag instead of a Chanel lipstick.   I still don't quite get how a refrigerator would fit into the taxi though. 

Secondly,  Dave and I couldn't find the sign for passport control or immigration entry so joined others in the queues forming behind a counter festooned with Travel posters.   The officers behind the desk were not giving us the "serious, no nonsense, scowling look" of state officials so we thought that we were about ready to be offered a time share in a condo.

When we reached the desk, the young man in uniform said, "Welcome to Sri Lanka" and smiling warmly at Dave and then at me , "Happy Birthday to you both.  I hope you enjoy your time here" and he began to chat amiably. ( It was indeed Dave's birthday and mine was just after.)  It was the first time I have had such a personal experience at passport control.  Welcome to Sri Lanka, indeed. 

After a few hours drive along the newest highway in Sri Lanka we reached our destination at Lady Hill in Galle, a hotel elevated above the modern town and old fort with 360 degree views of the city....an auspicious start. 


View from dining room of Lady Hill to Galle harbor

 After our first Sri Lankan curry and meeting with our fellow adventurers we slept well in our modern, air conditioned rooms.
.  
  The next day we were up early ready to explore the "living" fort of Galle, a world heritage site... with its historic Dutch and British history.   Our guide to show us the fort was Mr. Situge,  retired from the archeological museum. 

Sri Lankan bobbin lace

Wednesday, March 22, 2017

Why Sri Lanka?

                       Stilt fishermen on the Indian Ocean, Sri Lanka photo by Mary M Payne


 I have just come back from my adventure of two weeks in Sri Lanka.  I went under the banner of a company called Tell Tale Travel found at "ResponsibleTravel.com".http://www.telltaletravel.co.uk/sri-lanka/group-holiday.php   We were 9 solo travelers, not including our experienced Sri Lankan guide, Dee who was raised in Britain.   My brother, Dave and I were very pleased to have done it all and to have met such a lovely and amusing bunch of fellow adventurers.   It was everything we could have wished for..... not to say that we aren't tired out.  This was not a "sit in the spa" kind of trip and we will be musing about it for years to come.  



There are a variety of notions that made me choose Sri Lanka as a destination, none of them very logical, perhaps. 


First of all, about thirty years ago , Monsieur and I were invited by a friend of the Maharajah of Jaipur to a royal wedding in India.  As a deposed Maharajah, Bhawani Singh or "Bubbles" as he was called, was able to use his former palace in India for the wedding of his adopted son, Padmanabh's wedding. ..https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bhawani_Singh.   Monsieur and I along with several of our friends,  made up a small plane of attendees from Britain and America.  

The story of why Bhawani Singh was called Bubbles is a good one.  To celebrate the birth of his first son,  Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II,  had all the fountains at the palace contrived to send up cascades of champagne to mark the happy event.  Thenceforth Bhawani was known as "Bubbles" and it suited nicely as I remember him as a jolly man. 

The wedding that we attended lasted three days and started in New Delhi ending in Jaipur.  We stayed about 10 days in New Delhi and Rajasthan, took in all of the sites including the mogul tombs and immersed ourselves in the magic of India.  


 Our final destination and follow up of the wedding was the Rambagh Palace in Jaipur which had by then been converted by Bubbles into a hotel.   There we met  Gayatri Devi, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gayatri_Devi,  step-mother of "Bubbles".  She was acclaimed in both British and Indian society as a beauty and fashion icon and became political in India.  Unfortunately she was a threat to Mrs Ghandi so she spent some time tucked away in jail to be "out of the running."   You can still find her fascinating biography, A Princess Remembers: The Memoirs of the Maharani of Jaipur, by Gayatri Devi. 

Egg Hoppers, Sri Lanka, Photo by Mary M Payne


Sri Lanka is not India but it has ties to India.   The aboriginal hunter/gatherer people of Sri Lanka, the Veddhas, have been traced back to the Indian mainland by mitochondrial DNA .  So I was almost certain that I would recapture some of the love I had for India by a visit to the land of"Serendib" ( the name that theArab traders used to call the island).  

 Furthermore Sri Lanka until recent times has been closed to tourism.  The most recent reason was the devastating Tsunami of 2004, which left over 30,000 people dead or missing and extensive damage to the island. 

 But even before that event, from 1983 -2009 the country of Sri Lanka had been plagued by a bloody civil war, mainly the Tamil population pitted against the Singhalese. 

 This put Sri Lanka behind other Asian countries in tourism.  But I decided that this was probably not a bad thing for the wilderness nor for an authentic Sri Lankan experience.    (This lack of development in tourism turned out to be a blessing in some instances, and a frustration in others.)

Elephants wild, Sri Lanka Photo by Mary M Payne



A third reason for visiting was that whenever I mentioned an interest in a Sri Lankan trip to others who had visited they always remarked upon how warm and friendly are the Sri Lankan people . 

 Despite a difficult and bloody recent history and relative poverty,  I had a feeling that this forbearance showed the resilience and grace of a people and I hoped to meet some of them.   

                        Fishermen's children at Dutch Bay, Sri Lanka,  Photo by Mary M Payne


P.S.  It has taken me two days to post this as Blogger keeps changing the font to the tiniest. This font remains too large but at least you can read it.  
 I had to jump through hoops to post this one and it is still not right. 
Aaaah.