Memories of India: 1983

In 1983,  Monsieur and I and his cousin, Roger Marchese were invited by the last Maharaja of Jaipur ( Bubbles) to attend the wedding of his brother, Maharaj Jai Singh which was to take place in India.  

  We were part of a large party of mostly British that we had met through our friend Russian Prince George Galitzin ,who monsieur knew from his many trips with him to Russia.  He and his wife Jean lived in London where we made frequent visits. 

 During and after the wedding, we spent at least a  week visiting the glories of what's known as India's"Golden Triangle": New Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur, the sites where the wedding took place.    

Bubbles, as he was affectionately still called until his death in 2011, got his name from the celebration of his birth when purportedly huge quantities of champagne were poured out. The story we heard was that it was put into all of the fountains.

 As the first male heir born to a reigning maharaja of Jaipur for generations (all others, including his father having been adopted) his birth was celebrated throughout Jaipur. 

His real title was Brigadeer Maharaja Sawai Bhawani Singh , the last titular Maharaja of Jaipur before all of his titles and privileges were removed when India abolished princely states. 

 However, for this and other family ceremonies he was able to use his original homes and palaces.  It was Bubbles who sent us each an invitation. 


Roger, Kerry's cousin, has just sent these photos taken from that trip. He has gone to a lot of trouble to have them digitalized.  Now I am reliving that transformative week all again. 

 It is interesting how young and naive I seem, posing in front of all the sites as if the Indians were models put their for my convenience.  But I was young and I still say I was lucky to have been there.  

I am going to post some of these photos to indulge myself and remember those days.   And I will talk about a few of the memories that have stayed with me for 35 years.  

The wedding itself took place in New Delhi and Agra with the ceremonies ending in Jaipur.   The bride remained veiled all through the three days of rituals.   Some of these rituals included priests tossing ghee as the couple made circles around him,  the husband tying his garment to hers as a symbol of their unity.  

Throughout the prayers, people left their seats for refreshments, returned and talked quietly with each other.  With such extensive rites we were not expected to sit through everything. 

 I remember also in New Delhi, a visit to the home of a female relative of the bride.  There we saw a sumptuous collection of her sari's.   Many were woven with gold or silver threads and all were displayed rolled on bolts on a wall of shelves, much like a shop.   

On November 18th in Delhi,  we were invited to a magnificent dinner celebration at the City Palace.  I wore an elaborate brocade dress that I had made in San Francisco.  I paired this with dangling paste earrings (which I still own).  That evening, an Indian gentleman approached my husband and complimented him on his taste in buying me such magnificent diamonds.  

In India, a large variety of gems are mined and are thus abundant. All of the ladies at the dinner wore elaborate jewelry of real stones.  However, I was bemused to think that my earrings could be thought of as the real deal.  

 Another surprise for me was that no one left his or her used plate on the buffet table at the end of the meal.   All the Indians discreetly place their dirty plates under the table cloth that reached to the floor.  That way, they were out of sight. 

  Mary and Monsieur, India ... Photo by Roger Marchese

A group picture of the wedding guests invited from England ,  Photo by Roger Marchese

I take a ride on a camel with my cavalier at my side. Photo by Roger Marchese

The famous "red fort" in New Delhi,  photo by Roger Marchese

  We then visited the historic Red Fort in Delhi.   It was the main residence of the emperors of the Mughal dynasty for nearly 200 years until 1856.    The fort is located in the center of Delhi and houses a number of museums.   In addition to accommodating the emperors and their households,  it was the ceremonial and political center of the Mughal state and the setting for events impacting the region.  The red fort was built in 1639 by Emperor Shah Jahan.  

Street musician,  India  Photo by Roger Marchese

MaryM Payne 1983: Photo by Roger Marchese

Photo by Roger Marchese

 India,   Photo by Roger Marchese.

We encountered many street beggars and gypsies in India.   They are a beautiful and joyful people despite being at the bottom of the societal ladder.   We did notice that some of the lowest caste Indians would cut off the arm of a child to illicit more sympathy when the child became a beggar.  Their belief was that if you are in a low caste there is no rising up in this lifetime.  Instead you must be the best beggar you can be.   I am not sure if the Gypsies of India consider themselves in the lowest caste. 

My monsieur in India 1983, Photo by Roger Marchese

Mary M Payne 1983, Photo by Roger Marchese

Notice the elephant tusk Indian wedding bracelet I am wearing in this photo.  I still own it, although it has long since been illegal to sell or buy ivory.  But that, as I say, was a different time.  I bought it in the government regulated shop in Delhi.

Russian Prince George Galitzin 1983, Photo by Roger Marchese