The TAJ MAHAL

The Taj Mahal , India Photo by Roger Marchese

After a few days spent exploring New Delhi our group boarded a bus to Agra, a city on the banks of the Yamuna River, best known for its three UNESCO World Heritage sites:  the Taj Mahal, Fatchput Sikri and the Agra Fort.

The Taj Mahal  1983, photo by Roger Marchese

The Taj Mahal is as magnificent a structure as I have ever seen.

It was commissioned by Shah Jahan in 1631 to be built in the memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal, a Persian princess who died giving birth to their 14th child.  The imperial court documents Shah Jahan's grief after the death of his wife, the love story held as the inspiration for Taj Mahal.

The principal mausoleum was completed in 1643 and the surrounding buildings and garden were finished about five years later. At the time we visited there was not a wall around the complex as there is today.... and we chose to see it three or four times, once in the middle of the night as it stayed open through the night. 

At all times there was at least one priest guarding the interior tombs.  It was only on the night-time visit that I realized that there were two sets of tombs.  I had already seen the false sarcophagi of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan during the day but their actual graves are at a lower level which the priests revealed that evening.  We were able to step down into that marble enclosure. 

Also that evening, I started chanting a melody inside the tomb's main chamber.   It was clear that the interior main building is an echo chamber.  To my surprise one of the priests began to chant in unison with me and Roger joined in as well.  There were only a few of us in the building in the middle of the night so we chanted softly together.  Only after we exited, did I see the sign that said no shouting, talking or singing inside the tombs.  

Another story is that in the visit that night we were approached by a young boy of about 14 who wanted to be our guide.  This was/is the usual practice for young enterprising youngsters in India.  We agreed and he showed us around. As we wandered outside to the platforms surrounded by the tall towers, we saw what looked like a human body floating down the Yamuna river very close behind the Taj Mahal. 

 Even more startling was the great vulture perched on the floating corpse. 

 "Yes", explained our young guide, " if a person has no family he is not burned but is tossed into the river to float away." 

It was these types of experiences in India that opened our eyes to the differences offered to challenge our tight little bundle of ideas. 

And this is why I have always thought of India as a wondrous, spiritual place, full of mystery and new ways of seeing.

Taj Mahal, India,  Photo by Roger Marchese

Nearing dusk at the Taj Mahal, 1983  Photo by Roger Marchese