Friday, May 25, 2012

Lyon : Final word

 Just to finish up with a few images from Lyon.  

I said I was getting away to find quenelles and art.  I found both and was pleased by one and not the other.  I will give the quenelles a chance again only in a top restaurant.  I think it is one of those things that  needs a lot of expertise.   But I do find Lyon to be a lovely city with some wonderful architecture and lots of high end shops where one can forever do the "leche vitrine"  ( literally means" lick the window") such a great expression for window shopping. 

The Hotel de Ville or city hall. 

Fountain in front of city Hall. 

 After hoofing it all over the second arrondissement, I crossed the river to the old town and found that it was more run down and touristic than last time I came.  I quickly found my way off of the main street with its marionette and miniature museums but not before I caught the two images below at the entrance to the latter.

This is a model of a book seller's, in the foyer to the miniature museum.   Someone has spent hours on this and I knew Monsieur would appreciate the image as he wishes this was his real library( and that no one else was allowed to touch a thing!)

Here is what they did for a minature model barber shop.   I didn't go into the main museum though.

  I had other fish to fry.  I was looking for a good restaurant for Gail and I to have dinner together our last night before the train ride back to Nice.

Notre Dame of Fourviere basilica. Lyon, France   This time I didn't climb the hill to this magnificent Cathedral.  I wasn't there for churches.

                                                                  La Machonnerie

  But I did find this restaurant, in the old town out of the way of the tourist path.  After reading the menu, I knew they had "the food sensibility". ...and also recognition from the Michelin Guide didn't hurt.  

 The place is called La Machonnerie, on 36 rue Tramassac, tel. 0478422462.  It is run by Joseph Viola who was awarded as one of the best workers in France.  Meilleur Ouvrier de France is a coveted award for best in your field.

  Luckily I reserved a table at noon that day or I doubt we would have been seated that evening. It was packed.

  We really enjoyed our white asparagus with speck starter ( a juniper flavored ham from the Tyrol), our fish and veal and all the various dishes of vegetables that came with these.   We loved just sitting with our bottle of wine before signaling the waitress that we were ready for dessert.

 I will never get over how one is never "nudged" from the table in a FRench restaurant when you are finished with your meal as you are in many places in America.  You can be the last to leave but you won't get any "dirty looks".  It's unthinkable to a FRench waiter.

For dessert we both opted for the Floating Island , "Oeufs a la neige"  ...eggs in snow.  It is made in Lyon with little nuggets of red nougat which is a specialty of the town.  Interesting.

  I will be back to this little gem of a bistro one day I hope.  It was not expensive or fancy but it was just right for what we wanted: homey, well executed dishes, and great service.  Even my gourmand husband would surely have enjoyed it.

On Sunday morning after a coffee and a pastry at Paul's ( oldest bakery in France) we walked over to the Quay Romain Rolland to see the arts and crafts fair : Market of Creation:

There are several art markets, but we only had time for this one and a glimpse of the food market on the other side of the river.
  • Arts and Crafts markets
Marché aux Tupiniers (pottery), Marché aux bouquinistes, Marché de la création, Marché des artisans d'art...
Many places to choose from if you want to shop or simply take a leisurely stroll!

La Foire aux Tupiniers
Vieux Lyon’s pottery market that takes place during the second weekend of September.
5 montée Saint-Barthélemy - 69005 Lyon
Tel. +33(0)4 72 77 92 42 

Marché aux Bouquinistes
le Marché des Bouquinistes
Every Saturday and Sunday at Marché aux Bouquinistes (second hand books), shoppers are able to travel back in time as they stumble across their most loved childhood books and novels or complete their collection of original works will those one of a kind books.
This is a charming and charismatic market where you can buy all genres of books at incredibly low prices!
Quai de la Pêcherie - 69001 Lyon
Every Saturday and Sunday 10am – 6pm

Marché de la Création
Un dimanche matin, au marché de la Création
Every Sunday morning Lyon’s painters, sculptures, jewellers, musicians, poets and many other craftsmen come together at the Marché de la Création.
The riverbanks are transformed into an artistic forum where amateurs, professionals and visitors exchange and explore ideas in a creative and friendly environment.
Quai Romain Rolland – 69005 Lyon
Every Sunday :6am – 1.30 pm 

  I had remembered Lyon as an art city from the first time I visited .  Very fine artists are showing at the river on weekends and some other artists with great potential and decent prices.  To qualify to show, one must be admitted by a committee who judges the artist's submitted dossier.  This way there is a higher quality of offerings than we have in Nice and a variety of types and styles of work including hand crafts .

 I couldn't resist a necklace as a souvenir from Helene Hutinet, a maker of fantasy jewelry.   Her online store is called L'Object d'Effet.

 I could go on with what I discovered in the lovely city of Lyon but I will leave you to consider a trip yourself.    If you are on a sojourn from America , the euro against the dollar is looking pretty good right now.  There's that and  I am realizing that even though you love your town, your garden or your home,  one needs to change horizons from time to time..

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