Tuesday, January 7, 2020

Wat Phra Singh and Wiang Kum Kam




This charming guy is Parr,  he was our driver/guide for some of our time in Chiang Mai. 


Wat Phra Singh Temple, Chiang Mai

There are dozens of temples in Chiang Mai but the first one Parr took us to was Wat Phra Singh which was founded in 1345 by King Phayu, the fifth king of the Mantra dynasty.  He had a chedi (stupa) built to house the ashes of his father.  

 Stupas or chedis, as they are called in Thailand,  are usually shaped like the best part of an ice cream cone.  They are often covered in gold leaf and they hold holy relics.   There were a couple of them at Wat Phra Singh.  


Stupas at Wat Phra Singh
   The Wat Phra Singh temple was built at the time when a number of different kings ruled Thailand.  From 1578-1774, the northern Lanka kingdom was controlled by the Burmese and this temple was abandoned and fell into disrepair.  It was only when King Kawila assumed the throne as King of Chiang Mai in 1782 that this temple and all of its surrounding buildings were restored. 

Inside are important murals but what really was astonishing are the exact likenesses of revered monks done in wax.  I couldn't stop staring at the details of these effigies.  Of course, I was looking at them from the craftsman's viewpoint....each little hair on their heads!


Close up from one of the ancient murals

Buddhist monk effigy in wax, Wat Phra Singh

Wax effigies of famous monks, Wat Phra Singh
Wat Phra Singh, Chiang Mai


Wat Phra Singh, Chiang Mai


Side view of wax effigies, Wat Phra Singh
Parr had a medallion around his neck the day we visited this temple.  It seems that many Thai Buddhists wear such a likeness of their favorite monk just as Christians wear crosses. 

The following day we left Chiang Mai and traveled with Parr to the ancient village of Wiang Kum Kam before heading north.


One of the vehicles available for Wiang Kum Kam


Wiang Kum Kam is a historic settlement and archaeological site built by King Mangrai the Great as his capital before he moved it to Chiang Mai 700 years ago.  The reason for giving up on the place seems to be flooding of the Ping River.   The city was lost to history for many years after Chiang Mai was conquered by the Burmese in 1558.   But people moved back 200 years later and called it Chang Khan village.  

 In 1984, the Dept. of Fine Arts in the area, discovered the remnants of the city and started excavations.  Since then, as more funds are available, vast remains have been found and restoration has started in earnest. 

Now with the help of ponies and traps, it is a tourist site.   




A bodhi tree near the ancient temple.  The staffs leaning up against the tree are a symbol for helping the tree.
The Bodhi fig tree represents where the Buddha found enlightenment.  You come across them in Buddhist countries from time to time and they are much revered as symbols of enlightenment.  We found one here and I asked about the strange forked poles leaning up against this one.  Parr said that they were to "support" the tree....obviously metaphorically. 


Parr with his medallion, sitting in the pony trap

Our next stop was to be our official goodbye to Parr.  We had had a lot of fun hearing his stories and singing songs with him in the car on the ride up north but where we were headed in Chiang Rai we definitely needed a 4x4 so we said our "adieu" at the White Temple "Wat Rong Khun". 

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